In the installation of PVC drain pipes, the correct use of glue directly affects the sealing and durability of the pipe connection. Many people may think that "applying glue" is a trivial matter, but improper operation is prone to problems such as water leakage and disengagement. The following is a step-by-step explanation of the standard usage of PVC drain pipe glue, as well as the curing time requirements that must be paid attention to.

First is the preparation work - cleaning and drying are the basics. Thoroughly sand or wipe the outer surface of the pipe interface and the inner surface of the pipe fitting interface with sandpaper or dry cloth to remove dust, oil and moisture (even a little water droplet may affect the bonding effect). If the interface has burrs, scrape it flat with a knife to ensure that the surface is rough but flat - so that the glue can better "bite" the plastic surface.

Next is the key application step. Unscrew the glue bottle cap, dip an appropriate amount of glue with your own brush (or special applicator brush), and apply the inner interface of the pipe fittings first: brush evenly along the inner wall of the pipe fittings, be careful not to miss the edge, and do not apply too thick (thick will cause glue to overflow, but waste and may block the pipe); then apply the outer interface of the pipe: brush the same evenly once, focusing on the "effective length" of the pipe inserted into the pipe fittings (usually 2/3 to 3/4 of the depth of the pipe fittings). Note here: the brush should not be dipped in glue repeatedly, and the amount should be enough to apply one interface at a time to avoid the glue drying in the bottle.

Then there is the connection step - "fast, accurate and stable". After applying the glue, immediately insert the pipe straight into the pipe fitting. When inserting, rotate it slightly by 15-30 degrees (do not twist it back and forth) to ensure that the glue is evenly distributed, and then keep it fixed for about 30 seconds - do not move this step, and let the glue initially bond. The depth of insertion should be in place, generally subject to the pipe touching the bottom of the pipe fitting, or refer to the "insertion mark line" on the pipe fitting (if any).

and then talk about the curing time - don't worry about touching it! The curing of PVC glue is divided into two stages: "preliminary curing" and "complete curing": preliminary curing generally takes 5-10 minutes (at room temperature around 25 ° C), at which time the pipeline can be maintained in a connected state, but it cannot withstand pressure; complete curing takes 24 hours (also at room temperature), after which the water pressure test or put into use. If the ambient temperature is lower than 10 ° C, the curing time will be extended, and it may take 48 hours or even longer - be sure to wait a little longer during construction in winter, don't rush to water.

Finally, a few precautions are reminded: the glue should be stored in a cool and dry place, and used up as soon as possible after opening (to avoid volatilization and thickening); do not let the glue contact the skin when applying (if it touches, rinse with water and soap); if too much glue overflows, scrape it off with a knife after preliminary curing, and do not need to wipe it specially - rubbing may damage the uncured adhesive layer.

In fact, the logic of using PVC drain glue is very simple: clean it in place + apply it evenly + connect it accurately + wait for enough time. Master these points, so that the pipe connection is firm and does not leak, and avoid the trouble of later rework.