In decoration or construction projects, the construction and acceptance of PVC drainage pipes are directly related to the life and use experience of the drainage system. To install the pipes stably and use them for a long time, you must strictly follow the industry norms - from the entry of materials to the final acceptance, there are "hard rules" at every step.

First talk about the "entry test" of material preparation. Whether it is a new pipe or accessories (elbows, tee, expansion joints, etc.), you must first "go through the sieve" before construction: to see if there are any cracks, bubbles, depressions, and whether the nozzle is flat; take a tape measure to measure the diameter and wall thickness of the pipe, such as the commonly used De110 pipe, the wall thickness must meet the general requirements of the industry (generally 3.2mm0.3mm); check the product certificate and test report to confirm that the specifications, models and design requirements are consistent - after all, "the slightest difference" may be "a thousand miles" when installed.

Next is the "technical details" of the construction process. The first step is positioning: mark the direction of the pipeline according to the design drawings. The key is to be accurate in the slope - for example, the slope of the drainage horizontal pipe is 2.5% for the De50 pipe and 1.2% for the De110 pipe. If the slope is too small, the sewage will not be discharged; if it is too large, it will wash out the pipe. After positioning, use the ink line to flick the line to ensure that the pipe goes straight.

Then there is the pipe connection, which is the "top priority". PVC pipes are often glued to connect, and the steps should not be messy: first wipe the interface between the pipe and the accessories with a dry cloth, do not leave dust or water; then use special PVC adhesive to evenly apply to the outer wall of the pipe and the inner wall of the accessories (it must be fully coated, do not leak spots); wait for the glue to dry a little bit (about 3-5 seconds), quickly insert the pipe into the accessories, insert it to the bottom and turn it a little (do not exceed 90 degrees), keep it still for 10 seconds - this step should be "fast, accurate and stable", otherwise the glue will not stick firmly when it dries.

Fixed pipes are also exquisite. The spacing of the brackets should be according to the specifications: for example, the spacing of the brackets of the De50 pipe should not exceed 1.2m, and the De110 pipe should not exceed 1.5m. The brackets should be installed next to the socket of the pipe, and should not be pressed on the interface to avoid fracturing the joint. When passing through the wall or floor, a casing larger than the pipe (such as the casing of the De110 pipe sleeve De125) should be set, and the gap between the casing and the pipe should be filled with fireproof plugging material to prevent water leakage or odor.

After the construction is completed, the acceptance level cannot be saved. First look at the "face": whether the pipeline is horizontal and vertical, whether the interface leaks glue or cracks, and whether the bracket is firm; then measure the "lining" - tightness test (water closure test): seal the two ends of the pipe with plugs, inject water to 200mm above the top of the pipe, and after soaking for 24 hours, see if the water level has dropped and whether the joints have seepage. If the pipeline is buried, the water seepage must meet the specifications (for example, the water seepage per 10m pipe length does not exceed 0.05L per minute); if it is installed on the surface, dripping will not work.

also has a slope inspection, take a level ruler or a slope meter to measure, for example, whether the slope of the De75 pipe is 2%; whether the number and position of the bracket are correct, and whether there are less or wrong places. Finally, organize all the acceptance records, such as material certificates, test reports, and construction logs, and keep them for later inspection.

Finally, remind a few "pit avoidance" points: PVC pipes are afraid of the sun, do not expose the pipes to the sun during construction, otherwise they will age; expansion joints must be installed, especially long pipes (such as more than 4m), and reserve 10-20mm expansion and contraction to prevent thermal expansion and contraction from cracking the pipes; when passing through the wall, the casing should be 50mm longer than the pipe, and the two ends are exposed to the wall, so that the sealing is tighter.

In fact, the specification of PVC drainage pipes is not "binding", but "insurance" - every step is followed by the rules to avoid the trouble of water leakage and pipe blockage in the later stage. Whether it is the decoration master or the owner, know more about the norms, and have a bottom in my heart?